Sunday 27 October 2013
Research- Fashion Futures
Outlining the most important and the most relevant points of the book called
"Researching the Visual"
RESEARCHING THE VISUAL
Michael Emmison and Philip Smith
The book gives different ideas about the visual and the way it's perceived and how it's accepted and so on and so forth, a lot of interesting facts.
For example, in the very beginning the authors link us to different writers like Prior and Foucault..
(p.5)
"..'A case can be made for sociology of space rather than a sociological geography.'(1988:87) through focusing not so much on the spatial relationships which exist between buildings, settlement patterns and the link characteristics of urban landscapes, but on the internal features of buildings- upon their architectural configurations.
Prior's own work on the changing architecture of hospitals draws extensively upon Foucault in developing a discursive conception of spatial organisation, knowledge and control.
Faucault's example of the panopticon and gaze similarly can be very easily seen as a major contribution to theorizing the role of the visual in social life, more particularly their links to power and social control."
So the book begins with the musing around the general urban landscape of buildings and structures and the actual inner world of those buildings, we see how the big and the small can co-exist and depend on each other.
To me, it's an interesting start when it comes to thinking about how an installation can be connected to the structure of the building/gallery (venue) itself:
-in design
-or in size
-or in the interesting way the ceiling is structured for instanse
-or may be put the exterior design and the interior (corner/installation) in odds,
-or vice versa, play with the balconies and put the whole structure in a perfectly matching visual details. It is very cosy for the audience to come and explore it, as it feels easier and more comfortable (Burberry's Regent street, ex-cinema venue converted into the large store and with a real cleaver use of space)
EXAMPLE ONE- PURE EVIL GALLERY
EXAMPLE TWO- BURBERRY REGENT STREET
EXAMPLE THREE- DENIS SIMACHEV SHOP&BAR (MOSCOW)
The authors also say (p.6-7)
" All aspects of the room- the oak panelling, leather chairs, high ceilings, the glass-fronted bookcases, the spatial arrangements of the tables, the presence of the uniformed commissionaire- convey the formality and solemnity of the occasion:
'This is a room in which serious matters are discussed: the room has a presence that is forced upon our consciousness. This is a room that, even when unoccupied, impresses on the visitor a solemn demeanour and subdued speech. When occupied it retains its solemnity, and speech is now formal, carefully spoken, and a matter for the public record' (Stimson, 1986: 643)
EXAMPLE - COMPARE THESE TWO/ IMAGINE HOW YOU FEEL AND HOW YOU SPEAK WHEN YOU ENTER
'Words spoken in this room, evidence, deliberations, and disposals, become part of this history.' (Stimson, 1986:645) "
So I think it's an interesting point, it is important to choose a right venue, to create a special atmosphere. A kitschy but stylist paintings (like by Pure Evil Gallery examples I've shown earlier) can relax the tension on an expensive place or brighten up and empty gallery. If the place is a pure kitsch it much look cheap and tacky. Same with the expensive items. Depends on the state I would want my audience to get into when they enter the store/gallery and see the installation or see the visually merchandised display..
It is also obvious that the installation is a metaphor in a way and the authors remind about it taking the example of printed media:
(p.11)
"For many forms of publication, from newspapers and magazines to books on cooking and art history as well as many branches of natural science, 'the visual' is an integral component:
'the pages of the scientific journal such as Nature depend upon depictions: tables, graphs, scattergrams, maps, sketches- all of those and more are to be found in the articles it publishes. The science that it reproduces would be impossible without visualisation' (Fyfe and Law, 1988:3, emphasis in original) "
The authors mention that the natural sciences tend to be more specific about the visualisation whereas the sociological sciences are a bit less exact.
EXAMPLE- ANATOMY&PSYCHOLOGY
Then they move onto the photography saying that it became a popular object for analysis of perception and representation relatively not so long ago.
And therefore, it can be a good tool to manipulate and speak my own creative language with the viewer, I reckon.
Might be a very good idea to select the series of sketches or a photo set. The books mentioned Becker, whose idea is relevant to be mentioned now:
(p.25)
"For Becker the most important way in which the photographic explorations of social life can be made more sophisticated (sociologically) is for the researcher to avoif the accumulation of isolated images and seek instead to photograph 'sequences of action' which try to capture something of dynamic aspects of social organisation or the patterns that cause and affect."
THEN, there are some ways of using the photography- conventional distinctions mentioned
(27-29), according to Jon Wagner's theory:
-photographs as interview stimuli (i.e. pictures shown to conduct a survey)
-systematic recording (i.e. when recording a bird-life, etc.)
-content analysis of naive photographs (i.e. mix of what happens when the photographer with his idea collaborates with an advertisement shoot enquiry)
-native image-making (idea to discover world-wide views on something)
-documentary photography
To me, it's a good way to once again, remind myself, what the display should contain of, should it TELL a story for example, or should it give an idea TO THINK of a story?
(p.28) " 'the first involves using photographs in the conventional sense of data gathering.. visual sociologists also study photographs produced by the culture for example in advertising, newspapers or family photo albums...Some sociologists take photographs to study the visual world, whereas others analyse photographs others have taken' (Harper, 1988: 55)"
There is a reference to John Scott in the book:
"The use of various props, backgrounds, and poses were subject to changing fashions; moreover 'the subjects in the studio photographs have in general acquiesced in the aesthetic contexts chosen for the pictures' (1991:193)'"
so here comes to semiotics science and the meaning research, to me , it is another reminder of how I can adapt the means of expression and attributes in my final work to express the pre-thought idea.
Another interesting idea from this book can be found in the paragraph titled "The analysis of video recordings of natural interaction", as I am hoping to make a video for the installation..
"The major innovation in this context has been the work of researchers in the field of conversation analysis who have provided both an elaborate conceptual framework for analysing sequences of actions, and equally importantly, a transcription notation system which allowed the details of interaction to be recorded and subject to be recorded the investigation"
So I think it's an another reminder of possible ways of using the moving image in my project..
And then on the page 67, I found another important thing, that I should not forget about Narrative and Reading..
"Narrative involves a story line. This can be achieved through a series of images or else can be projected onto a single image by imagining what could happen in the past and perhaps, what is going to happen next; Reading- this is the process of decoding the image"
I've just reached the point when i have to start explaining the video part of my research, I was wondering if I could produce a video with animation whilst on this course.
Here's a video with animation that covers the idea of aesthetic I really adore!
p.82 "in the last decade or so cartoons and comic strips have begun to receive more attention, particularly from feminist communications researchers who have argued that they are important sites for reinforcing stereotypical gender assumptions."
As we know, many photos and pictures/painting can be observed from the semiotics point of view, so there is an anthropological connection between objects and their makers. Which is so important as a CORE of any installation. There is an inspiration behind, there is a story, and there is a maker..
Also, I find it interesting to see how the book classifies the purposes of the venue, i.e. Museum:
(p.121) "Henrietta Lidchi (1997:159) suggests there are several significant features to museums:
-Representation: refers to the claims of the museum to reflect some larger order of phenomena in microcosm
-Classification deals with the way that the museum divides objects to themes
-Motivations refers to purpose of the museum
-Interpretation is the function of museums to provide a coherent understanding of the purpose of its exhibits and to place them within a broader framework of meaning"
/ ALL LINKS :
SAGE PUBLICATIONS
2004
/videos and photo examples- selected by me
"Researching the Visual"
RESEARCHING THE VISUAL
Michael Emmison and Philip Smith
The book gives different ideas about the visual and the way it's perceived and how it's accepted and so on and so forth, a lot of interesting facts.
For example, in the very beginning the authors link us to different writers like Prior and Foucault..
(p.5)
"..'A case can be made for sociology of space rather than a sociological geography.'(1988:87) through focusing not so much on the spatial relationships which exist between buildings, settlement patterns and the link characteristics of urban landscapes, but on the internal features of buildings- upon their architectural configurations.
Prior's own work on the changing architecture of hospitals draws extensively upon Foucault in developing a discursive conception of spatial organisation, knowledge and control.
Faucault's example of the panopticon and gaze similarly can be very easily seen as a major contribution to theorizing the role of the visual in social life, more particularly their links to power and social control."
So the book begins with the musing around the general urban landscape of buildings and structures and the actual inner world of those buildings, we see how the big and the small can co-exist and depend on each other.
To me, it's an interesting start when it comes to thinking about how an installation can be connected to the structure of the building/gallery (venue) itself:
-in design
-or in size
-or in the interesting way the ceiling is structured for instanse
-or may be put the exterior design and the interior (corner/installation) in odds,
-or vice versa, play with the balconies and put the whole structure in a perfectly matching visual details. It is very cosy for the audience to come and explore it, as it feels easier and more comfortable (Burberry's Regent street, ex-cinema venue converted into the large store and with a real cleaver use of space)
EXAMPLE ONE- PURE EVIL GALLERY
EXAMPLE TWO- BURBERRY REGENT STREET
The authors also say (p.6-7)
" All aspects of the room- the oak panelling, leather chairs, high ceilings, the glass-fronted bookcases, the spatial arrangements of the tables, the presence of the uniformed commissionaire- convey the formality and solemnity of the occasion:
'This is a room in which serious matters are discussed: the room has a presence that is forced upon our consciousness. This is a room that, even when unoccupied, impresses on the visitor a solemn demeanour and subdued speech. When occupied it retains its solemnity, and speech is now formal, carefully spoken, and a matter for the public record' (Stimson, 1986: 643)
EXAMPLE - COMPARE THESE TWO/ IMAGINE HOW YOU FEEL AND HOW YOU SPEAK WHEN YOU ENTER
So I think it's an interesting point, it is important to choose a right venue, to create a special atmosphere. A kitschy but stylist paintings (like by Pure Evil Gallery examples I've shown earlier) can relax the tension on an expensive place or brighten up and empty gallery. If the place is a pure kitsch it much look cheap and tacky. Same with the expensive items. Depends on the state I would want my audience to get into when they enter the store/gallery and see the installation or see the visually merchandised display..
It is also obvious that the installation is a metaphor in a way and the authors remind about it taking the example of printed media:
(p.11)
"For many forms of publication, from newspapers and magazines to books on cooking and art history as well as many branches of natural science, 'the visual' is an integral component:
'the pages of the scientific journal such as Nature depend upon depictions: tables, graphs, scattergrams, maps, sketches- all of those and more are to be found in the articles it publishes. The science that it reproduces would be impossible without visualisation' (Fyfe and Law, 1988:3, emphasis in original) "
The authors mention that the natural sciences tend to be more specific about the visualisation whereas the sociological sciences are a bit less exact.
EXAMPLE- ANATOMY&PSYCHOLOGY
Then they move onto the photography saying that it became a popular object for analysis of perception and representation relatively not so long ago.
And therefore, it can be a good tool to manipulate and speak my own creative language with the viewer, I reckon.
Might be a very good idea to select the series of sketches or a photo set. The books mentioned Becker, whose idea is relevant to be mentioned now:
(p.25)
"For Becker the most important way in which the photographic explorations of social life can be made more sophisticated (sociologically) is for the researcher to avoif the accumulation of isolated images and seek instead to photograph 'sequences of action' which try to capture something of dynamic aspects of social organisation or the patterns that cause and affect."
THEN, there are some ways of using the photography- conventional distinctions mentioned
(27-29), according to Jon Wagner's theory:
-photographs as interview stimuli (i.e. pictures shown to conduct a survey)
-systematic recording (i.e. when recording a bird-life, etc.)
-content analysis of naive photographs (i.e. mix of what happens when the photographer with his idea collaborates with an advertisement shoot enquiry)
-native image-making (idea to discover world-wide views on something)
-documentary photography
To me, it's a good way to once again, remind myself, what the display should contain of, should it TELL a story for example, or should it give an idea TO THINK of a story?
(p.28) " 'the first involves using photographs in the conventional sense of data gathering.. visual sociologists also study photographs produced by the culture for example in advertising, newspapers or family photo albums...Some sociologists take photographs to study the visual world, whereas others analyse photographs others have taken' (Harper, 1988: 55)"
There is a reference to John Scott in the book:
"The use of various props, backgrounds, and poses were subject to changing fashions; moreover 'the subjects in the studio photographs have in general acquiesced in the aesthetic contexts chosen for the pictures' (1991:193)'"
so here comes to semiotics science and the meaning research, to me , it is another reminder of how I can adapt the means of expression and attributes in my final work to express the pre-thought idea.
Another interesting idea from this book can be found in the paragraph titled "The analysis of video recordings of natural interaction", as I am hoping to make a video for the installation..
"The major innovation in this context has been the work of researchers in the field of conversation analysis who have provided both an elaborate conceptual framework for analysing sequences of actions, and equally importantly, a transcription notation system which allowed the details of interaction to be recorded and subject to be recorded the investigation"
So I think it's an another reminder of possible ways of using the moving image in my project..
And then on the page 67, I found another important thing, that I should not forget about Narrative and Reading..
"Narrative involves a story line. This can be achieved through a series of images or else can be projected onto a single image by imagining what could happen in the past and perhaps, what is going to happen next; Reading- this is the process of decoding the image"
I've just reached the point when i have to start explaining the video part of my research, I was wondering if I could produce a video with animation whilst on this course.
Here's a video with animation that covers the idea of aesthetic I really adore!
p.82 "in the last decade or so cartoons and comic strips have begun to receive more attention, particularly from feminist communications researchers who have argued that they are important sites for reinforcing stereotypical gender assumptions."
As we know, many photos and pictures/painting can be observed from the semiotics point of view, so there is an anthropological connection between objects and their makers. Which is so important as a CORE of any installation. There is an inspiration behind, there is a story, and there is a maker..
Also, I find it interesting to see how the book classifies the purposes of the venue, i.e. Museum:
(p.121) "Henrietta Lidchi (1997:159) suggests there are several significant features to museums:
-Representation: refers to the claims of the museum to reflect some larger order of phenomena in microcosm
-Classification deals with the way that the museum divides objects to themes
-Motivations refers to purpose of the museum
-Interpretation is the function of museums to provide a coherent understanding of the purpose of its exhibits and to place them within a broader framework of meaning"
/ ALL LINKS :
SAGE PUBLICATIONS
2004
/videos and photo examples- selected by me
Learning-5 Fashion Laboratory
26 of October
Me, Chirag and Poon got together at Chirag's student residence in North Acton.
We spend the entire afternoon working editing the film and mixing it with sound so it works good.
What can I say? I loved the result so far. Amazingly pleasant to see how the first film ever went better than I could imagine.
Because there are only two ways: It's good(okay) or it's a total..whatever!
So, me and Poon left at 7-and-something PM completely crazy, I still had that music playing in my ears..
But today (27th) I am fine, happy and excited to finish it tomorrow/Tuesday and go to the humble screening at school!
Me, Chirag and Poon got together at Chirag's student residence in North Acton.
We spend the entire afternoon working editing the film and mixing it with sound so it works good.
What can I say? I loved the result so far. Amazingly pleasant to see how the first film ever went better than I could imagine.
Because there are only two ways: It's good(okay) or it's a total..whatever!
So, me and Poon left at 7-and-something PM completely crazy, I still had that music playing in my ears..
But today (27th) I am fine, happy and excited to finish it tomorrow/Tuesday and go to the humble screening at school!
Learning-4 Fashion Laboratory- FILMING
25th of October
SHOOTING OF "PERFECT SHOT"
9/9-30 AM- MEETING AT BLITZ STUDIO:
the studio opened at 10, so some of us got there too early.
10-30 AM- MODEL ARRIVES
Meanwhile, we all were doing our thing, Jose (photographer) was setting the lights with Cindy, who was his assistant
Poon was shooting, Chirag helping everyone, checking if Poon has got all the necessary 'working process'- scenes recorded
Me-arranging outfits
11-30- we started worrying about hair and make up as it was taking us too long to get it done. The result was different from what I (i think we) expected, but it was okay
12-ish PM - shooting
Thankfully the process didn't take too long, the model I found was beautiful, she's also Russian, so sometimes I helped to explain in our native language
Whilst trying to pull on latex stockings, there was me and my friend helping out, whoever has ever tried to do that, knows how tough it is to put on latex hosiery.
So one of the stockings got torn apart because of the pressure. But then we cut it to make it shorter. Thank god it worked.
The outfit looked good, the model was nice
The script and the pre-arranged storyboard helped us organise shooting while the actual photo shoot was going on (when I found that photographer who was willing to act/photograph, I promised Jose, an MA student of LCF, that I'll bring more looks so he has something like a proper test shoot and everyone wins!)..
1-30 PM - finished filming!
I continued styling for Jose, and Chirag and Poon took active part in that, they brought PVC (so did I, but when I worked at it back at home, I had an allergy on my neck after cutting the PVC on myself, trying to make a tshirt, so my pre-cut collar also got involved).
Very nice team indeed!
2- 00 PM we all left the studio
Then Poon and Chirag went to Lime Grove to film one last scene and bring back the equipment. I went to return outfits..
MUSIC
Later that evening I messaged my friend, Lo Seen to ask to send over his piece of music to Poon for download.
SHOOTING OF "PERFECT SHOT"
9/9-30 AM- MEETING AT BLITZ STUDIO:
the studio opened at 10, so some of us got there too early.
10-30 AM- MODEL ARRIVES
Meanwhile, we all were doing our thing, Jose (photographer) was setting the lights with Cindy, who was his assistant
Poon was shooting, Chirag helping everyone, checking if Poon has got all the necessary 'working process'- scenes recorded
Me-arranging outfits
11-30- we started worrying about hair and make up as it was taking us too long to get it done. The result was different from what I (i think we) expected, but it was okay
12-ish PM - shooting
Thankfully the process didn't take too long, the model I found was beautiful, she's also Russian, so sometimes I helped to explain in our native language
Whilst trying to pull on latex stockings, there was me and my friend helping out, whoever has ever tried to do that, knows how tough it is to put on latex hosiery.
So one of the stockings got torn apart because of the pressure. But then we cut it to make it shorter. Thank god it worked.
The outfit looked good, the model was nice
The script and the pre-arranged storyboard helped us organise shooting while the actual photo shoot was going on (when I found that photographer who was willing to act/photograph, I promised Jose, an MA student of LCF, that I'll bring more looks so he has something like a proper test shoot and everyone wins!)..
1-30 PM - finished filming!
I continued styling for Jose, and Chirag and Poon took active part in that, they brought PVC (so did I, but when I worked at it back at home, I had an allergy on my neck after cutting the PVC on myself, trying to make a tshirt, so my pre-cut collar also got involved).
Very nice team indeed!
2- 00 PM we all left the studio
Then Poon and Chirag went to Lime Grove to film one last scene and bring back the equipment. I went to return outfits..
MUSIC
Later that evening I messaged my friend, Lo Seen to ask to send over his piece of music to Poon for download.
Thursday 24 October 2013
Research- Fashion Futures
AITOR THROUP
He hold his installations and selection of his items at Dover Street Market.
From lookbooks to his web-site, everything he does is based on workaholic attitude to making a creation of his design perfect and a product of a high quality
His work includes creative direction of Kasabian and curating and creating pieces for set-designs.
He told me about his web-site that got launched last week
"We found a computer geek that first promised he'd make our ideas happen and turn into a web-site within a year and a half, as it was a very crazy idea. But he gave me a call a few days after, that was one weekend after, really, and came with a preview of our actual idea happen. Apparently he got so annoyed that he made it happen so much earlier. I love working with these people"
http://aitorthroup.com/chapters/new-object-research/
Some of Aitor's sketches
He also said that whatever is there in his corner of Dover street Market store, is good, he is happy when it sells, but he is way more happy to produce and be engaged in a process of research of forms and how he can manipulate new technologies.
Research- Fashion Futures
I find Dover Street Market installations a huge part of my inspiration for my research
So I would like to share this video that depicts some installations held at Frieze events last year at DSM
And here are some other videos
So I would like to share this video that depicts some installations held at Frieze events last year at DSM
RESEARCH- FASHION FUTURES
As I've mentioned in a previous post, here's a relevant to the last post and my whole research, video
RESEARCH -Fashion futures
I have just read a book by Richard Hammond called "Smart Retails" 3rd edition
I would like to explain why I think this book can be relevant for my research. First of all, it is based around retail which is a medium between fashion consumers and the designer. So when I decided to deal with installations I didn't exclude terms such as Visual Merchandising, for example.
Vice versa, I think it's another type of installation.
As I have already stated many times in this blog, I am really inspired by the costumer experience arranged using digital and team motivational techniques used by Burberry's Angela Ahrendts and Christopher Bailey.
In my next post I will add a video where Angela Ahrendts explains the strategy of the company.
Retail is an important part of the idea of installation. As installation is an artistic approach to selling/ showing/ positioning good or a work of art. So it's a mean of communication with a viewer/customer.
But now I would like to highlight main points I took from the book about smart retail.
Credits:
Smart Retail (3rd ed) by Richard Hammond, Pearson Education limited (2011)
"Give the best you can to get the thing you want"
So Hammon also says: "Passion is what drives great retail; and customers, as well as colleagues, love it" (p.6),
"Customers leave a store run by a passionate team feeling like they want to come back"(p.6)
What a brand or a designer should do, is "getting yourself noticed- showing the wider business that you are a bit special and person worth backing"(p.9)
In chapter 4, p.15, Hammond reminds: "There are no secrets to retail. One thing changed can be the start of something big. Change one detail noticed by one customer, who mentions it to five others, who each tell five more, and you can see that change can make big impact"
So Hammond points out 3 components (p.16) :
A-The store
B-Its staff
C-Its customers
-from outside
-watch people walking past
-how many glance at the window?
-how do they react if they do?
-how do they move if they then come into the store?
-from inside
-watch where customers are going
-which part of each section do they enter first?
-look at people's eyes (what do they see/what do they miss)
-what things do they touch? (which items they pick and from where/ how long do customers linger over each display fixture)
-etc
Your biggest challenge is to get customers to pick up stuff and interact with it and with staff- get that happening and you sell more things.
We have challenge in store. It is physiologically hard for people to pick out one thing from another if those things are static."
FUNDAMENTALS OF RETAIL THEATRE
Then he goes mentioning just two types of those things:
-Vocal promotion (i.e. "three for price of two", but in case of installation the relevant idea would be music and some audio sounds)
- Merchandising
"The arrangement can make it seem there is more to suggest than there actually is." (p.173)
"The colours of adjucent items are careful selected too."
"Managing perceptions is also an aspect of great retail theatre"
"One easy way to get a bit of performance and movement into the store is to do lots of demonstrations."
Chapter 15 explains why details (and installations!) are important!
(p.179)
"at the simplest, the store fixtures and fittings, signage colours and windows are there to do a very simple set of things:
1 tell customers about what you are
2 tempt them to come in
3 display products nicely
4 show off focus and promotional displays
5 lead customers through the different ranges
6 make it easy to select and pay for stuff"
I think, it can be an answer to the question- WHY INSTALLATIONS/ PRESENTATIONS/ DISPLAYS ARE IMPORTANT IN FASHION?
"Retail theatre is about animating a store, making it live and breathe, Telling stories with colous, sound, movement and even smells and tastes."
I would like to explain why I think this book can be relevant for my research. First of all, it is based around retail which is a medium between fashion consumers and the designer. So when I decided to deal with installations I didn't exclude terms such as Visual Merchandising, for example.
Vice versa, I think it's another type of installation.
As I have already stated many times in this blog, I am really inspired by the costumer experience arranged using digital and team motivational techniques used by Burberry's Angela Ahrendts and Christopher Bailey.
In my next post I will add a video where Angela Ahrendts explains the strategy of the company.
Retail is an important part of the idea of installation. As installation is an artistic approach to selling/ showing/ positioning good or a work of art. So it's a mean of communication with a viewer/customer.
But now I would like to highlight main points I took from the book about smart retail.
Credits:
Smart Retail (3rd ed) by Richard Hammond, Pearson Education limited (2011)
"Give the best you can to get the thing you want"
Author gives some ideas on how to motivate your working process, also mentions visioning techniques used by trainer Bob Caton (p.4)
Again, if we take Burberry's stores and how they organise the whole experience in store, I wouldn't be possible without the passion of their team.
So Hammon also says: "Passion is what drives great retail; and customers, as well as colleagues, love it" (p.6),
"Customers leave a store run by a passionate team feeling like they want to come back"(p.6)
What a brand or a designer should do, is "getting yourself noticed- showing the wider business that you are a bit special and person worth backing"(p.9)
Again, this is another point that can be the reason for making a nice presentation/ installation, OR it can always be a pre-stage to a certain type of positioning of the product that is a certainly very important thing to remember when arranging such an event as installation or designing a visual merchandising project.
In chapter 4, p.15, Hammond reminds: "There are no secrets to retail. One thing changed can be the start of something big. Change one detail noticed by one customer, who mentions it to five others, who each tell five more, and you can see that change can make big impact"
To my mind, the next thing I'll point out for my own research, is very important to mention, it's about "reading stores", or what they consist of. In my mind, a perfect fashion installation would be in store, that would make this project a perfect accessory to the general concept of the space.
So Hammond points out 3 components (p.16) :
A-The store
B-Its staff
C-Its customers
STORE:
-from outside
-watch people walking past
-how many glance at the window?
-how do they react if they do?
-how do they move if they then come into the store?
-from inside
-watch where customers are going
-which part of each section do they enter first?
-look at people's eyes (what do they see/what do they miss)
-what things do they touch? (which items they pick and from where/ how long do customers linger over each display fixture)
-etc
It is important in visual merchandising or installation to depict (if that's a retail store and the collection is being promoted) to remember
"Every great retail business is built around a Big idea" (p.25)
"SIMPLE THINGS- STRONGLY STATED" (p.44)
Installation is- FUN! And Hammond mentions is as a part of the experience! Coming back to the example of Burberry, if you even take their fashion shows, they find it important to engage their guests in the experience (see AW 2012-2013 show, and a confetti rain falling from the ceiling keeping the crowd amused, see their Regent Street store events that happen within their live broadcasting of the runway projects arranged for special customers etc)
"Fun is a value that many people believe, and I agree, should be part of the working environment. Fun makes shopping enjoyable. We are all in the business of making shopping fun" (p.45)
And I reckon an installation is a great example of how to keep your customers entertained.
Chapter 9 is called "WE LOVE SHOPPING HERE!"
and is about "Great customer service".
Hammond says that "the word "EXPERIENCE" is important: great customer service is made up of lots of individual customer experiences and I much prefer using the word "experience" rather than "service". "
He also says, that all of us, coming to shop, would want to get some little extra to feel extra-good after spending money or in other words, to be ourselves happy. So here's a list of 'extras' given on p.108, that I would use as a nice inspiration of possible events/occasions to set an installation in store!
here's that list (of extra services):
-recommendations
-product demonstrations
-masterclass technique démonstrations
-product training for customers
-tip sheets
-after-sales service
-trade-in
-expert staff
-try-before-you-buy
! I think all the additional services could be organised not just on a daily basis but also, as separate event-days.!
And those special Nights are mentioned on p.127:
"Inviting selected customers to join you in store for an exclusive evening of demonstrations and offers can be very effective. Provide refreshments and snacks and if appropriate bring a relevant speaker, and entertainment too. Try to pick a theme or a special reason for doing it because that can help you to more effectively promote the night. A sports shop for example could invite customers to celebrate the Eng;and Football Manager's birthday. It's frivolous, sure, but gives you a hook too. This is another one that can get you coverage in the local paper".
And actually, I got interviewed when I was invited to a closed event by Burberry at Regent Street, and they interviewed me for Evening Standard. Which is obvious- those nights a to celebrate the brand, its customers dedication, reward them with a unique opportunity to see Keiser Chiefs and have some drinks and have a nice amount of time for networking!
so the key point of why I use this book in my research is underlined by a few paragraphs from chapter 12, page 150:
"when customers wander around your store, or look into the windows they are subconsciously demanading : 'INSPIRE ME! MAKE ME WANT TO LOOK AT SOMETHING!'
If there's a trick to retailing it's in understanding how to manage that to demand to your advantage. the principle tools you have to do that with are:
-your external communications
-windows
-use of retail theatre
-discovery "
So now I've approached the very core of the important information I can use from this book!
Chapter 14, p 167 is called "The Big Theatre of Shop":
"The Stew Leonard's case study featured some great big dripping chunks of retail theatre- an idea that's so critical to creating great customer experiences. Theatre. Hmm, we love a bit of Shakespeare and all that .. I'm not talking about that kind of a theatre. Well, I am actually, but not in the same way: retail theatre is about animating a store, making it live and breathe, Telling stories with colous, sound, movement and even smells and tastes.
What for? Reasonable question. The answer is: bringing the store to life brings your customers to life, too.Your biggest challenge is to get customers to pick up stuff and interact with it and with staff- get that happening and you sell more things.
We have challenge in store. It is physiologically hard for people to pick out one thing from another if those things are static."
FUNDAMENTALS OF RETAIL THEATRE
Then he goes mentioning just two types of those things:
-Vocal promotion (i.e. "three for price of two", but in case of installation the relevant idea would be music and some audio sounds)
- Merchandising
"The arrangement can make it seem there is more to suggest than there actually is." (p.173)
"The colours of adjucent items are careful selected too."
"Managing perceptions is also an aspect of great retail theatre"
"One easy way to get a bit of performance and movement into the store is to do lots of demonstrations."
Chapter 15 explains why details (and installations!) are important!
(p.179)
"at the simplest, the store fixtures and fittings, signage colours and windows are there to do a very simple set of things:
1 tell customers about what you are
2 tempt them to come in
3 display products nicely
4 show off focus and promotional displays
5 lead customers through the different ranges
6 make it easy to select and pay for stuff"
I think, it can be an answer to the question- WHY INSTALLATIONS/ PRESENTATIONS/ DISPLAYS ARE IMPORTANT IN FASHION?
LOOK AND FEEL
"It's relatively easy to create knock0out gorgeous stores at sensible cost. Especially that manufacturers are often keen to supply retailers with great-looking free, or part-sponsored, display systems. But even if you're spending your own money, you must match that spend to your Big Idea"
WINDOWS
"YOUR WINDOWS ARE OUTSIDE COMMUNICATORS SO THEY MUST BE MADE TO WORK HARD FOR YOU.
A good window display is critical. It must be welcoming: it must give passers-by reasons to come in. New products are great on window displays. "
YOUR WINDOW DISPLAYS CAN DO THREE OF THE FOLOOWING THINGS:
INTRIGUE
abstract but sharply focused images that pique costumers' interst. (i.e. All Saints) It is a theatrical intrigue, makes people want to know what's going on and it can also suggest tailoring, hand-making and quality.
INFORM
i.e. sales details
INSPIRE
i.e."Flirty dresses are a key to spring"
Wednesday 23 October 2013
Learning-3 Fashion Laboratory
JESSICA BUGG
(23rd of October)
We had a very pleasant presentation by Dr Jessica Bugg and her colleague Tim.
During the session we were expected to follow the ways of presenting the work, as we could see in Jessica's example, there were all the stages of her work depicted in the presentation, including aim, which, to my mind, are all the necessary details when pitching or showing your project to the industry insiders.
I got fascinated by the designs we witnessed on the screen.
And how the fabric and shapes could be translated by the soundtrack and extra sounds recorded, for instance, using the bed-sheets.
Fascinating films and a very interesting discussion. Although we are just about the shoot our film this Friday, I did get curious to hear the questions of the other students which could hint us what sort of difficulties we might have, as working with sound recording is something I've never tried. At least for film.
Later this afternoon,
Nilgun gave us some tips and followed our plan of how we're dealing on with the project, plus, we shared some ideas and what we have in mind.
The shooting is going to be on Friday,
I have found a model, the photographer and am dealing with the styling,
I hope Chirag and Poon will be handy with the equipment, my major weakness, really.
Tomorrow, I am going to try and embellish some fabric, construct some piece as a part of her look, I am very glad Poon reminded of how PVC could work out, Got really inspired, have everything in mind, now have to work with it and construct something for our model!
Looking forward to Friday
(23rd of October)
We had a very pleasant presentation by Dr Jessica Bugg and her colleague Tim.
During the session we were expected to follow the ways of presenting the work, as we could see in Jessica's example, there were all the stages of her work depicted in the presentation, including aim, which, to my mind, are all the necessary details when pitching or showing your project to the industry insiders.
I got fascinated by the designs we witnessed on the screen.
And how the fabric and shapes could be translated by the soundtrack and extra sounds recorded, for instance, using the bed-sheets.
Fascinating films and a very interesting discussion. Although we are just about the shoot our film this Friday, I did get curious to hear the questions of the other students which could hint us what sort of difficulties we might have, as working with sound recording is something I've never tried. At least for film.
Later this afternoon,
Nilgun gave us some tips and followed our plan of how we're dealing on with the project, plus, we shared some ideas and what we have in mind.
The shooting is going to be on Friday,
I have found a model, the photographer and am dealing with the styling,
I hope Chirag and Poon will be handy with the equipment, my major weakness, really.
Tomorrow, I am going to try and embellish some fabric, construct some piece as a part of her look, I am very glad Poon reminded of how PVC could work out, Got really inspired, have everything in mind, now have to work with it and construct something for our model!
Looking forward to Friday
Tuesday 22 October 2013
Learning-2 FASHION LABORATORY
2nd of October
We got introduced to the assignment, and had a lecture, had been shown the difference the sound makes on the moving image on the example of Psycho.
The difference was huge, seems like the shower scene is much more violent without any sound, that to my opinion brings a viewer to a comfort zone of realisation of the fact it's a film.
Whereas the scene with no sound, makes it creepy and almost brings a feeling of you being a witness of a crime.
Really enjoyed the class, although we did have that last year thankfully, but it's always very engaging and interesting to check the classics and interrogate the scenes!
2)
After that, we did see some works but the current MA students of our course that are MA Grads-to-be!
I've known David before, and Wendy as well. It was a lovely thing to see what we're expected to produce, see the level of those students as well!
And also, I discovered Philip Humm, who I'd not known before, he has his own approach, so it was very curious to see..
Outcome:
meeting new people
getting inspired
figuring out the expected level of technical skills
3) Then we were given the mics, and practised some filming and were explained the roles of the crew at the shooting process.
We really enjoyed trying (and failing) to record some cool sounds.
But I am more and more confident working editing sound (and I think video as well!) using Final Cut. Really excited about that programme and editing skills I might develop!
Outcome:
Learnt how to use mics/ see the difference of sounds and mics we'd use according to the actual effect we require
Practised Final Cut sound editing
Worked in team, got to know them better
16th of October
Firstly,
Nilgin gave us an amazing and interesting presentation, and showed how sounds affect the film again, which is really necessary to keep us inspired to develop our short film making process, as it's to be about sounds, as well.
Took some notes on films to watch. Really enjoyed it
The second part of the session
It was about story boarding, we did story board the day before with Chirag and Poon and we found it funny and came up with solutions, I am really happy we can compromise without losing the ideas each of us has in mind!
Then,
We got split in teams, I was with Louise, and we had to listen to an audio file whilst making a very quick story board, then present, then compare to the original extract from the film, see how one can interpret the sound and what it can actual be recorded for.
We had "Birds"'s bird-attack scene.
It was easy working with Louise, once again, I find those sessions really interesting to get to know the team and collaborate but at the same time it's fun and it was really funny to see how your hearing and imagination can work building a story never been told, especially with those sounds in particular.
OUTCOME:
1) notes on films, plus got inspiration
2) show our work and got some tips from Nilgin and Andy on how to build our scenes
3)getting to collaborate
learn to compromise
psychologically build a comfort around myself to make it better to work with me
We got introduced to the assignment, and had a lecture, had been shown the difference the sound makes on the moving image on the example of Psycho.
The difference was huge, seems like the shower scene is much more violent without any sound, that to my opinion brings a viewer to a comfort zone of realisation of the fact it's a film.
Whereas the scene with no sound, makes it creepy and almost brings a feeling of you being a witness of a crime.
outcome General idea of the importance of the sound and how it can change the edit and the result of a storytelling via film
3rd of October
Compared to last year's induction, this game we had to follow the sheet of paper with questions as in to pass a quest, turned out to be fun. But still a useful thing to know about the Lime Grove and what it can suggest.
After that, we were given some equipment to make some shooting, so me, Chirag and Poon went to shoot to D-block. ended up having a creepy film in a sculpture laboratory in D-block. I'm not a technical type of a person, but I did enjoy filming a bit and playing a role of a victim of a mental professor haha
outcome:
getting to know the strengths and weaknesses of the team members of my trio that I'm gonna be working with to complete a short film for the end of October. Very pleasant people and we share some aesthetics so that was fun!
9th of October
1)
We had some semiotics told by Andy using his classic example of the JAWS beach scene
Really enjoyed the class, although we did have that last year thankfully, but it's always very engaging and interesting to check the classics and interrogate the scenes!
2)
After that, we did see some works but the current MA students of our course that are MA Grads-to-be!
I've known David before, and Wendy as well. It was a lovely thing to see what we're expected to produce, see the level of those students as well!
And also, I discovered Philip Humm, who I'd not known before, he has his own approach, so it was very curious to see..
Outcome:
meeting new people
getting inspired
figuring out the expected level of technical skills
3) Then we were given the mics, and practised some filming and were explained the roles of the crew at the shooting process.
We really enjoyed trying (and failing) to record some cool sounds.
But I am more and more confident working editing sound (and I think video as well!) using Final Cut. Really excited about that programme and editing skills I might develop!
Outcome:
Learnt how to use mics/ see the difference of sounds and mics we'd use according to the actual effect we require
Practised Final Cut sound editing
Worked in team, got to know them better
16th of October
Firstly,
Nilgin gave us an amazing and interesting presentation, and showed how sounds affect the film again, which is really necessary to keep us inspired to develop our short film making process, as it's to be about sounds, as well.
Took some notes on films to watch. Really enjoyed it
The second part of the session
It was about story boarding, we did story board the day before with Chirag and Poon and we found it funny and came up with solutions, I am really happy we can compromise without losing the ideas each of us has in mind!
Then,
We got split in teams, I was with Louise, and we had to listen to an audio file whilst making a very quick story board, then present, then compare to the original extract from the film, see how one can interpret the sound and what it can actual be recorded for.
We had "Birds"'s bird-attack scene.
It was easy working with Louise, once again, I find those sessions really interesting to get to know the team and collaborate but at the same time it's fun and it was really funny to see how your hearing and imagination can work building a story never been told, especially with those sounds in particular.
OUTCOME:
1) notes on films, plus got inspiration
2) show our work and got some tips from Nilgin and Andy on how to build our scenes
3)getting to collaborate
learn to compromise
psychologically build a comfort around myself to make it better to work with me
Learning -1 (FASHION FUTURES)
on the 30th of September, the first official day of studies, I got introduced to the unit handbook and details on the assessment.
It looks like, the actual research we're supposed to make, should be built around the technologies that would allow the sphere of fashion media production to step further to the future and develop the industry in general.
We had been given a task to get split into teams and make a short presentation about the new technologies that might be something very very important for the digital future of fashion.
Me and Raki, ex-classmates of the Grad Diploma Fashion Media Styling, felt comfortable getting to work together again. And we made a short presentation dedicated to digital prints,
a weekend before the class, the 5th of October, we sat down in a lounge of Central Saint Martins to talk, research and get to know more about the technology. I got fascinated by the idea of the holographic shows, including Burberry one, that Raki mentioned in the class. Being a huge fan of the brand, not only due to its' aesthetics but a really clever branding methods used by Christopher Bailey and Angela Ahrendts (ex-CEO, unfortunately, now), I got really impressed!
(but we thought that question requires a bigger research and a much deeper analysis and a longer presentation, so we dropped it out and made a presentation on digital prints technology)
outcome of the task
_______________________________________________________
on the 7th of October we had our short presentations
I really love those prints, I think they look much better in terms of the quality compared to those used by the brands who go for the original printing method.
But to me, even when we were researching a few days before, it was a real shock, that you can print out the shaped objects using the 3D design
And what a relief! We actually have got a nice studio where we could do that. I dropped an email, given to me by the technical team on the 3rd floor 3d scanning room, to Holly, but looks like her workshops will start later this year in November. Looking forward to get to hear from her again.
Goal and outcome: Aim to learn 3D scanning
_________________________________________________________________________________
14th of October
For that day, Thomas asked us to be ready to discuss our research ideas, what we want to write about in our assessment!
I enjoyed the class, because when I came there, I did have a good thought, indeed, but when I was there, I had a very complicated mix of ideas in my head, I wouldn't say that it's all super clear at this point but I would say the idea to join us in groups to discuss made it much easier for me, really.
I have been into the idea of art-direction and learning to get to know digital, plus, I have friends who do huge production for stage performances, including the gigs of Muse, for instance. And I've been curious to put my hands on something of that kind and also to satisfy my creative curiosity about the digital and branding and all those tricks used by Burberry to make a perfect customer's experience possible at their stores or events!
So I dropped a few words like 'installation', 'screens', 'set-designs', 'experience', 'events', 'fashion presentations'. And my lovely peers, Marta, Raki, Olya helped me to develop that chain of thoughts into the idea of exploring the possibilities of digital to make installations/presentations really engaging and interactive so that I could also suggest like a prototype as my practical work within this research.
We'll see what I can do.
OUTCOME:
a much clearer idea of what I should do this term and what my research's focus is.
_________________________________________________________________________________
21st of October
we needed to select a blog to discuss that day. no one knew how to follow a handbook, I did, but didn't get what it should be about, a globalization case study or a blog to be selected. Anyhow, we had something in mind.
I love blogs (but I think they're web-sites) some students selected, like VS magazine for instance, or Dazed Digital, indeed. But I thought to me it's more of a proper web-site rather than a blog. so I did show two street style type of blogs, from which Stockholm Streetstyle is a good one, and a blonde salad is a total tacky mess.
We also discussed some semiotitians, which I learnt from the last year's course and I really enjoy it. Especially Janice Miller's classes, those were really helpful last year.
________________________________________________________________________________
It looks like, the actual research we're supposed to make, should be built around the technologies that would allow the sphere of fashion media production to step further to the future and develop the industry in general.
We had been given a task to get split into teams and make a short presentation about the new technologies that might be something very very important for the digital future of fashion.
Me and Raki, ex-classmates of the Grad Diploma Fashion Media Styling, felt comfortable getting to work together again. And we made a short presentation dedicated to digital prints,
a weekend before the class, the 5th of October, we sat down in a lounge of Central Saint Martins to talk, research and get to know more about the technology. I got fascinated by the idea of the holographic shows, including Burberry one, that Raki mentioned in the class. Being a huge fan of the brand, not only due to its' aesthetics but a really clever branding methods used by Christopher Bailey and Angela Ahrendts (ex-CEO, unfortunately, now), I got really impressed!
(but we thought that question requires a bigger research and a much deeper analysis and a longer presentation, so we dropped it out and made a presentation on digital prints technology)
outcome of the task
-presentation with Raki
-new knowledge on the different printing technologies
-3D printing basic information
_______________________________________________________
on the 7th of October we had our short presentations
But to me, even when we were researching a few days before, it was a real shock, that you can print out the shaped objects using the 3D design
And what a relief! We actually have got a nice studio where we could do that. I dropped an email, given to me by the technical team on the 3rd floor 3d scanning room, to Holly, but looks like her workshops will start later this year in November. Looking forward to get to hear from her again.
Goal and outcome: Aim to learn 3D scanning
_________________________________________________________________________________
14th of October
For that day, Thomas asked us to be ready to discuss our research ideas, what we want to write about in our assessment!
I enjoyed the class, because when I came there, I did have a good thought, indeed, but when I was there, I had a very complicated mix of ideas in my head, I wouldn't say that it's all super clear at this point but I would say the idea to join us in groups to discuss made it much easier for me, really.
I have been into the idea of art-direction and learning to get to know digital, plus, I have friends who do huge production for stage performances, including the gigs of Muse, for instance. And I've been curious to put my hands on something of that kind and also to satisfy my creative curiosity about the digital and branding and all those tricks used by Burberry to make a perfect customer's experience possible at their stores or events!
So I dropped a few words like 'installation', 'screens', 'set-designs', 'experience', 'events', 'fashion presentations'. And my lovely peers, Marta, Raki, Olya helped me to develop that chain of thoughts into the idea of exploring the possibilities of digital to make installations/presentations really engaging and interactive so that I could also suggest like a prototype as my practical work within this research.
We'll see what I can do.
Burberry Regent street store event- live streaming of the SS2013 show
Vitsoe installation at Dover Street Market, late 2012
OUTCOME:
a much clearer idea of what I should do this term and what my research's focus is.
_________________________________________________________________________________
21st of October
we needed to select a blog to discuss that day. no one knew how to follow a handbook, I did, but didn't get what it should be about, a globalization case study or a blog to be selected. Anyhow, we had something in mind.
I love blogs (but I think they're web-sites) some students selected, like VS magazine for instance, or Dazed Digital, indeed. But I thought to me it's more of a proper web-site rather than a blog. so I did show two street style type of blogs, from which Stockholm Streetstyle is a good one, and a blonde salad is a total tacky mess.
We also discussed some semiotitians, which I learnt from the last year's course and I really enjoy it. Especially Janice Miller's classes, those were really helpful last year.
________________________________________________________________________________
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